Auto mechanics’ question of the day
Tags: car, automotive, vehicles
First, I know I wrote about my stupid car last week. I confess, I said farkit about getting it fixed right away because my mother drove us to the store to pick up stuff we needed. And the ridiculous Pollyanna in me hoped it would just be a fluke. But a week stuck in the house is long enough, even for me. :mrgreen:
Here’s your assignment:
1996 Volvo 850 GLT, with around 115K miles on it. Has a battery less than a year old and a new alternator (six months old). We tried to jump the car, but even with that, when trying to start it, there is NO sound. It’s not what you would normally hear with a bad starter; there is nothing, like turning the key in the damn glove compartment nothing. The car ran just fine when I went on a road trip a couple weeks ago (thank God!). VERY recently I had noticed some of the dash lights going out, though, so I’m sure there are fuses to be replaced.
I’ve got a mechanic coming to pick up the car tomorrow morning, but I dread the gender-impaired diagnosis and the bill, and don’t want to look completely clueless.
Any ideas?
http://crabapple.cc says:
Auto mechanics’ question of the day
HELP! My car is dead again. I just don’t want to sound as clueless as I really am when the mechanic shows up tomorrow to tow my car in. I need a cluebat!
Plugg me please, so maybe someone with a clue will see it!
tommy says:
it’s broke.
Martin says:
Beth
You’re driving a libmobile!! I got rid of my Saab because it was a libmobile. I know nothing about cars, I couldn’t begin to even guess what’s wrong with it.
Mark says:
Beth,
Call around and find a good honest auto electric shop. It doesn’t sound like a job for a mechanic, although he could probably fix it.
texanista says:
There is more than likely a fuse. The 850 is a good car but a pain in the ass to diagnose. It could just be the ignition switch as well…. go to http://www.justvolvo.com
p.s. Have you ever seen the bumper sticker “May I drive your vulva?” :)
Beth says:
Thanks, texanista–I was hoping someone would say it’s probably a fuse.
Mark, I didn’t even know there was a difference! Ugh.
Martin:
You’re driving a libmobile!!
I know. :sigh: But it’s paid for. It’s really libmobile-looking, too, because it’s got a side-mirror that has a different color paint than the rest of the car, because I refused to pay $450 for a new side mirror (I just took whatever junked one I could get, regardless of color). I used to be really picky about the car I drove, but now I just care about gas mileage, payments (as in, none), and safety. Of course, a car that doesn’t run at all is great on mileage and safety.
I’m stuck on Volvo though. Next car I’ll get will be another one, I’m sure. Unless it’s a Mercedes or something nicer when a sugar-daddy materializes. :mrgreen:
Beth says:
This is who I’ve got scheduled: LINK
texanista says:
Have you called your local volo dealer and asked one of the guys in the shop? They’re usually very helpful.
Beth says:
Ergh…no, I didn’t. And now it’s too late in the day. :???:
LANCE says:
check your email
LANCE
raz0r says:
I’ll just ditto texanista. Check the fuses under the dash and under the hood, and the ignition switch. Schlep down to your local parts house and thumb through a Chilton’s or Hayne’s repair manual. They usually have troubleshooting sections to them.
Greg G says:
Does anything electrical work? Most importantly, when you turn the key to the “on” position, do any of the warning lights light? If they do not, then there is no continuity from the battery to either the ground (-) or main positive conection. It is possible that the negative cable came loose or corroded (sp), but more likely an inline fuse between the battery and the starter motor blew. (Note that if there is no fuse, then the wire becomes the fuse). Very unlikely, but the new battery could be completely dead - a bad battery or a bad alternator could do that.
Otherwise, if the warning lights do light, then the problem is somewhere around the starter motor. It could be bad or the wire from the igntion key to the starter broke or came lose.
Diagnosing a problem like this requires looking at all of the components involved in the main circuit (battery to + connector on starter, starter to ground, ground to - on battery) and any other circuits involved (battery + to ingnition switch, ignition switch to starter control terminal; this might also include a ‘cutout’ switch if the automatic transmission is not in park (maybe neurtral too)). Anyway, by looking at things like the warning lights, you can make a good guess as to where the problem is.
Hope this helps - and good luck!
John says:
If it doesn’t crank at all, check the battery; if the battery isn’t dead and the connections are clean and tight, there is a problem with the starter circuit. Try again, if it still doesn’t crank, or even click, there may be a problem with the ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter, neutral safety switch (automatic transmission), or the clutch safety switch (manual transmission).
meltem says:
:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::!::!::!::!::idea::idea: